Crashing waves

The waves crashed on the beach and I realised I would have to surf on those big waves when I am just so little. I knew I wanted to do this so I jumped on my board and paddled out to sea. Suddenly, I saw a wave forming in the distance so I jumped on my board and kicked hard to get the wave. The wave came closer and closer and I was on the wave so I bounced up and I was standing on my board surfing. It felt amazing, I was finally standing then I fell off and couldn’t wait to do it again.😊😊😊